Monday, April 8, 2013


Most designers create one collection after another. What happens when you have fabric from your previous collection and want to start on your new collection? What happens when you don't care about rules? Perhaps you create inter-collection micro collections. I do. These pieces are playing with my vintage fabrics from the Lawless collection with designs from the upcoming collection called Black Sun.

First, some background history* to the collection inspiration...

As the Allied forces pushed towards Paris in 1944 my grandfather, Sargent Edmond Wade, was making fashion history. Knowing Paris would be chic and stylish, even in these times of war, he crafted the first designer coat from an army blanket.
Coats from blankets had been done before- part of 'trench art' dating back to the Boar War, but this was different. Wade created a cutting-edge design with minimal stitching and hood as part of the body. This radical departure in design was noted by the sexy Parisian women- many of whom were to become his lovers. 
The design was also picked up be British military suppliers J Compton, Sons & Webb, Ltd London. This stylish yet practical designed coat was being investigated for smart military wear. Luckily the war soon ended and the coat was never realized. 

The pattern was handed down to me, patent free, when he returned home.This is a replica of the original coat. WW2 Army blanket coat, with repair and minor holes.

  Also included in the micro collection...

* Cutaway waistcoat from old stretcher bed and vintage ticking. Double layer front and bound seams and edges.

* Reclaimed Australian Army shorts with false braces and belt from vintage webbing.

* Rust dyed one-button hoodie shirt with double layer body from reclaimed cotton and organic cotton sleeves. Dyed using rusty tools- inspired by India Flint- the leader in sustainable dye techniques. 

* Minimal organic cotton T-shirt

All seen here with vintage hat box and sports bag (Paris circa 1910), vintage bowler hat and 2nd hand U.S. Paratroops Corcoran  'jump boots'.

Reluctantly, all pieces available for sale. See my Big Cartel store. 

* History is what you make it.