Monday, March 28, 2011

Japanese Sewing Patterns

I love Japanese sewing books.
Sewing using the wonderful Japanese pattern books like Drape Drape is economical-14 patterns for around $28.00- that's less then $2 per pattern. Also, the designs a beautiful and modern. 
So allow me to share my passion for these great books with a walk through of garment making.


Frightening at first, a dozen patterns on one sheet takes a little getting used to. Pattern pieces are always numbered around the edge of the sheet. Looks like modern art or the Nazca Lines in Peru.


Highlighting the pattern pieces makes the whole process a lot easier. Use a different colour marker for each new garment.





With Pattern Magic, there is only instructions- it's up to you to create the patterns from scratch. This is highly rewarding and time consuming. Most books have patterns ready to go.


Using a French Curve and a straight edge is the best way to duplicate the pattern onto tracing paper. Freehand is just not accurate enough. 
This is the best time to add seam allowances. You will find most are 1cm (It's all metric). If the fabric layout image (in the book) has no indication then it is 1cm, otherwise seams will be indicated with a number- 0.6cm for necklines or perhaps 3cm for hems.


Mark all details on the pattern pieces. Eventually you will have a mountain of patterns so it pays to stay organised from the start.  I keep all my patterns flat in a very large card folder.

(Wearing a Circle- Pattern Magic 2)

Next it's muslin time. Cheap fabric can always be found at thrift stores for making samples. Sometimes I hem the edges, most times not. It's really about do the pieces fit together? (Pattern Magic!) and does the garment fit? 
(Twist turn turn top- Pattern Magic 2)

Better to mess up on $2 a meter than a $20 wool jersey. 
I'm loving the dress below on my partner and looking forward to finding the perfect fabric for the project.

(Twist turn dress- Pattern Magic 2)

The French site (Thank goodness for Google Translator !)  Japan Couture Addicts is a good place to see many of the great clothes from these books. 


Here is some common sewing terms in Japanese, translated. 


Hope you are inspired to explore these great pattern books!




For more Japanese patterns...
Check this post too.
+
Wearing a Triangle pattern 
+
wearing a Square.

22 comments:

brudeblogg said...

Wow! Many exciting patterns. Like them very much :)

Peter said...

Interesting! I've seen those books but they intimidated the life out me. Glad to see they make sense!

kelepso said...

Cool! Looks very fun!

Marie-Christine said...

Don't overlook the Mrs Stylebook magazines. Tons of designs (must be down to a quarter a pattern :-)). Instructions for how to make them starting with a personal block, very clear. Yes, you can do them instead from the generic block they provide, and get the same results as with these books. But it's so much better if you do have a good block for yourself.
A great patternmaking workshop in every issue! And much cheaper than any patternmaking book, not to mention much more contemporary.

Krystal said...

that dress really is cool! I'm totally impressed by how complicated that looks...

steufel said...

I suck at sewing! i'm always green with envy when I watch people do their magic with a sewing machine. Your dress looks stunning!

sue said...

The dress is amazing - there is a whole lot of lateral thinking going on with these patterns isn't there?! I can see how rewarding it would be - kinda like nutting out a puzzle when you get the pieces to fit!

secret agent woman said...

The top pattern, especially, reminds me of blueprints. But would be completely indecipherable to me.

Judah Noah said...

Ow...brain hurts just looking at that pattern!

Jacqueline deRuyter said...

I love the dress! I have Pattern Magic and love all of the creations but I have yet to attempt anything. You've inspired me to look through it again!

azirca said...

Oh my god.. you're not wrong, that pattern is frightening! I agree with secret agent woman, my initial thought when I first saw it was that it reminded me of blueprints.
Would it be a crime coming from a total non-sewer to say to someone of your talents that I would frame the pattern and hang it on my wall instead of trying to decipher it's geometric curves?

Prad Savania said...

Wow that dress is super cool - great work.......super awesome

Come check out my shoe design blogspot? Think you'll likey....

Take care

Louboutininthemaking.blogspot.com

dont judge people by their avatar said...

whatta coincidence.
i just learned something about kimono patterns (i love patterns, i love using patterns in my illustrations!); Ju, Asanoha, incense, narihira-bishi, blue sea waves, etc, and now i learned something new from you!

oh the twist is: LOVELY!

xox

Cherie said...

The twist turn dress is gorgeous. You're brilliant at working it all out, uberdon, ubertalented!

bicocacolors said...

amazing!!!!
it looks easy and really funny!
I'm going to try it!
have a fab Sunday,

Elena

Vicky said...

The clothes look wonderful!

Vicky
new post: Cherry blossom:&
follow me

Shane Bailey said...

I learned how to use a sewing machine entirely on you tube and reading through the owner's manual. I think it's time for me to learn pattern making but I got so intimidated and wonder if you could introduce a book for me to learn by myself? Greatly appreciated!

urbandon (Don Pezzano) said...

Shane,
This is how I started-

Simplicity's Simply The Best Sewing Book (Old but good book available on Ebay for a couple of bucks)
Bought cheap patterns from thrift stores- analyzed and adjusted them to my liking-narrow sleeves, longer.
Read http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-01.html
Drafted some basics like t-shirts and track pants with elastic waists.
Have a look at http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/drafting-the-mens-shirt-block
Jump into Japanese pattern books!
Hope that helps
Don

Robyn said...

I love the dress... it looks fabulous.

beatrice De said...

can I have the name of the editot in japan please. I might oder myself there. In Switzerland might be useless. Thank you.

urbandon (Don Pezzano) said...

Beatrice:check out http://books.bunka.ac.jp/np/index.do

artgrrl said...

These patterns made me think of Nazca too! So why not use the real Nazca lines, I tried it in this pattern http://www.flickr.com/photos/artgrrl/5872562123/in/photostream/